Chipfeko chekutanga chevakadzi ——gown rebhora
Chipfeko chekutanga chevakadzi igown reBhora, iro rinonyanya kushandiswa pamitambo yemhemberero uye pamitambo yakarongeka. Kutaura zvazviri, chipfeko chakajairika muChina igown remuchato. Chipfeko chevarume chine chipfeko chemangwanani nechomanheru kuti chisiyanise mashandisirwo enguva, uye musiyano uripo pakati pechipfeko chevakadzi unoratidzwa mujira, manheru anowanzo sarudza machira anopenya, kupfeka zvishongo zvakawanda; masikati anowanzo sarudza machira asina kujeka, kupfeka zvishongo zvishoma, asi muganhu uyu hausi pachena, saka chipfeko chekutanga chinowanzo shandiswa manheru.
Zvipfeko zvevakadzi hazvina kuita chipfeko chekutanga chemasikati chakasiyana, chakanyanya kuenderana nekuchinja kwemamiriro evakadzi munharaunda Hondo Yenyika Yekutanga isati yatanga, iyo vasati vabvumidzwa kutora chikamu muzviitiko zvemasikati zvakaita sebhizinesi repamutemo nebhizinesi. Mushure mesangano revakadzi, kunyanya mushure meHondo Yenyika Yechipiri, kutora chikamu kwakawanda kwevakadzi muzviitiko zvemagariro evanhu kwakava mafashoni, izvo zvaivewo chiratidzo chakakosha cherusununguko rwevakadzi. NeCHANEL yakagadzirwa zvichienderana neSutu yevarume, ichiratidza kutanga kwemufananidzo mutsva wenguva yevakadzi vane hunyanzvi. Yves Saint-Laurent akachinjawo mabhurugwa evakadzi vane hunyanzvi, achigadzira mufananidzo mutsva wevakadzi vane hunyanzvi vanogona kukwikwidzana nevarume. Maitiro aya zvipfeko zvevakadzi vane hunyanzvi zvekukwereta sutu yevarume kuita siketi kana bhurugwa sutu yehunyanzvi, kusanganiswa kwesutu yehunyanzvi yakagadziridzwa kuita chipfeko chemasikati, uye vakadzi vakatanga kutora chikamu zvakanyanya muzviitiko zvebhizinesi zvepamutemo, nekuti "KODHI YEKUVHARA" yepasi rose idiki, chipfeko chemanheru nhasi chinogonawo kushandiswa pazviitiko zvemasikati, kungori shanduro yemasikati kazhinji pakugadzira ganda risina kupfeka manheru, kuchengetedza zvakanyanya uye kuri nyore.
Chipfeko chemanheru (Ball Gown) ndicho chepamusoro-soro muchipfeko chevakadzi, nekuti hachikanganisike nekupfeka kwevarume, chimiro charo chinoramba chakachena, kureba kwaro kusvika patsoka, kureba kwaro kusvika pasi uye kunyange kureba kwakati kwemuswe. Semuenzaniso, mbatya dzemuchato, mbatya dzemuchato dzinowanzo shandisa dhizaini yemutsipa wakaderera, machira anoshandiswa zvakanyanya esiriki, brocade, velvet, jira resiriki rakajeka uye rine lace resi, maparera, sequins, embroidery yakanaka, ruffled lace nezvimwe zvinhu zvechikadzi. Chinhu chinowanzoitwa nechipfeko chemanheru chimiro chemutsipa wakaderera, saka masikati chinogona kuchinjwa kuita chimiro chemutsipa wakareruka usina mapendekete, icho chiriwo musiyano wakakosha pakati pechipfeko chemasikati nechipfeko chemanheru.
Kureba kwehembe yemanheru kazhinji hakupfuuri kumashure kwepakati pehembe diki (Cloak) kana kureba kusvika muchiuno chehembe (Cape). Basa guru rehembe nderekufananidza dhizaini yehembe yakachekwa zvishoma kana kuti isingatsvedzereki, kazhinji uchishandisa machira anodhura akadai secashmere, velvet, silk nefur, uye machira akashongedzwa zvakanaka uye trim anotevedzera hembe yemanheru.
Shawl inopindirana nesiketi yekupfeka kuti ishandise chikamu cheganda chisina kupfeka kudzivirira kushongedzwa, uye inogonawo kubviswa muzviitiko zvakakodzera zvechiitiko, zvakaita sebhora. Shawl ndiyo inonyanya kupfekwa nehembe yemanheru yevakadzi, nekuti inopfekwa muchikamu chakakosha, ichiva nzvimbo yekuti vakadzi varatidze hunyanzvi uye vagadziri varatidze tarenda ravo. Mugadziri Cristobal Balenciaga "anogona kutaura nezvemafudzi husiku hwese," uye cape ndiyo hunyanzvi hwake hwekushongedza.
Madhirezi emanheru anobatanidzwa nezvishongedzo, zvinosanganisira korona dzemakepisi (Tiara), masikafu, magirovhosi, zvishongo, mabhegi ehembe dzemanheru neshangu dzedehwe dzepamutemo.
1. Nguwani iyi imhando yekorona, inonyanya kushandiswa kune vachati mumichato nevakadzi vane chinzvimbo chakakosha pazviitiko zvakakosha. Yakagadzirwa nesimbi dzinokosha nezvishongo. Nguwani iyi inongoenderana nedhirezi remanheru chete.
2.Machira ekucheka anowanzogadzirwa nesirika yakareruka nemamwe machira.
3. Magorovhosi marefu ari pakati peruoko rwepamusoro, ruvara rwawo ruchena zvakanyanya kana kuti runoenderana neruvara rwehembe, kazhinji runobviswa pakudya kwemanheru.
4. Huwandu hwezvishongo hazvigone kusarudzwa zvakanyanya, kazhinji usapfeke wachi yeruoko.
5. Mabhegi emaoko kazhinji kacho mabhegi madiki uye akapfava asina mabraces.
6. Sarudzo yeshangu inofanira kuenderana nedhirezi remanheru, kazhinji shangu dzedehwe dzisina zvigunwe, uye shangu dzemanheru pakutamba bhora.
Chipfeko chevakadzi chepamutemo—— Dhirezi repati yetii (Gown retii)
Inozivikanwawo sedhirezi diki, hunhu hwayo hwakaderera pane dhirezi
Madhirezi etii anobva kumadhirezi emadzimai ekumba kubva kumagumo kwezana remakore rechi19 kusvika pakati pezana remakore rechi20, uye madhirezi etii anogona kupfekwa asina macorsets, nokudaro ari rudzi rwechipfeko rwakasununguka rwekugamuchira vaenzi kumba. Zvinhu zvakajairika magadzirirwo asina kusimba, kushongedzwa kusina kunaka, uye jira rakareruka, musanganiswa wemachira ekugezera nemadhirezi emanheru. Kureba kwacho kunobva pakati pemhuru kusvika pagumbo, kazhinji nemachira emaoko, machira anoshandiswa zvakanyanya echiffon, velvet, sirika, nezvimwewo. Pakutanga, chipfeko chaipfekwa pakudya nemhuri yake chakashanduka kuita chipfeko chisina kusimba chaipfekwa nemuenzi weimba paanogamuchira vaenzi tii kumba, uye pakupedzisira chakashanduka kuita siketi inogona kupfekwa pakudya nevaenzi. Mazuva ano, madhirezi etii ane mavara akasiyana-siyana uye kureba anoshandiswa muzviitiko "zvisina kurongeka" zvebhizinesi nebhizinesi.
Dhirezi retii revakadzi: rinowanzo shandisa chifukidziro chidiki neshawl, uye rinogonawo kuenzaniswa nejaketi renguva dzose (sutu, blazer, jaketi), kuti rigadzire dhizaini yemapfekero anowirirana, anonzi sutu yakasanganiswa. Sezvo dhirezi repati yetii rava kugadziridzwa kuita dhirezi repamutemo, musanganiswa uyu unogona zvakare kutariswa semusanganiswa usina kurongeka. Zvishongedzo zvedhirezi retii zvakafanana nedhirezi remanheru, asi zviri nyore uye zviri nyore
Chipfeko cheCocktail &Sutu yehunyanzvi
Chipfeko checocktail chipfeko chipfupi, chinozivikanwawo se "semi-formal dress", chakazobatanidzwa nesutu kuti chive sutu yehunyanzvi. Iyi style yeskirt pfupi inowanzo kuve nyore, kureba kweskirt kunodzorwa pa10cm pasi pebvi, siketi yacho yakakura zvishoma inogona kushandiswa pazviitiko zveformula kana zvebhizinesi, mhemberero yebhizinesi; kureba kweskirt kunonyanya kushandiswa pazviitiko zvebhizinesi uye zvebhizinesi. Kusanganiswa kwedhirezi recocktail nesutu kwakakodzerawo pazviitiko zvebhizinesi, zvakaita sebasa rezuva nezuva, zvinongoda kusanganiswa nejaketi resutu kuti zvigadzire style yesutu. Sutu yacho inonyanya hunyanzvi uye haina kushongedza zvakanyanya, iyo inonyanya kusarudzwa nemhando dzakasiyana dzezvipfeko zvevakadzi.
Madhirezi mapfupi anowanzogadzirwa nesiriki ne chiffon, uye madhirezi evakadzi ecocktail anosanganisira cape, shawl, matop akajairwa (sutu, blazer, jaketi) uye mbatya dzakarukwa. Zvishongedzo zvinosanganisira masikara, masikara, zvishongo, mawachi, mabhegi ekupfeka, mabhegi emaoko, masokisi, masokisi, shangu dzedehwe dzepamutemo neshangu.
Uye mapfekero evakadzi anogonawo kuvakirwa pasutu yehunyanzvi, uye anowanikwa mune zvimwe zvigadzirwa zvinochinjika, zvakaita sesutu yesiketi, sutu yemabhurugwa kana sutu yekupfeka, vanogona kushandisa musanganiswa wemavara akafanana, vanogonawo kushandisa musanganiswa wemavara akasiyana, padanho risingaite serevarume neruvara rine hunhu hwakajeka, magadzirirwo chete, saka vakadzi vanosarudza mazinga ese ezvipfeko, zvakakosha chete nekupatsanurwa kwehurongwa, uye havafanirwe kuvimba neruvara uye vanofanirwa kuita basa re, rusununguko maererano nezvipfeko zvevarume rwakakura kwazvo.
Zvipfeko zverudzi zvinoenderana nemamiriro ekunze —— cheongsam
RESS CODE Ine mubatanidzwa wakasimba uye inovaka, ine hurongwa hwayo hwese, asi haibvisi nyika nenzvimbo dzechipfeko chetsika dzenyika, chine hunhu hwenyika uye chipfeko chepasi rose chine chinzvimbo chakaenzana. MuChina, mapfekero emadzinza evarume nevakadzi anopfekwa neZhongshan suit ne cheongsam, hapana chinonzi internal level division, uye chimwe chete chinofanira kuchinja.
Cheongsam, kana kuti cheongsam yakagadziridzwa, inogara nhaka runako rwejasi revakadzi muQing Dynasty, inobatanidza hunhu hwevakadzi vekuMadokero kuti igadzirise chiuno, uye inogadzira runako rwevakadzi vekuMabvazuva nerunako rwakasiyana kuburikidza nekushandisa tekinoroji yekugadzira migwagwa yedunhu. Magadzirirwo ayo akajairika ndeaya:
1. Kola inomira, inoshandiswa kufukidza mutsipa wakanaka wechikadzi, hunhu hwakanaka
2. Siketi isina chikamu inobva pasiketi hombe yembatya dzechiChinese, ichiratidza runako rwekuMabvazuva
3. Mugwagwa wedunhu unoumba chimiro chemativi matatu pasina mitswe yekumberi neyekumashure, zvichiratidza chimiro chiri nyore uye chakarongeka
4. Magadzirirwo eruvara rwekumabvazuva ndiwo anonyanya kufadza hunyanzvi hwenyika.
Sechipfeko chenyika, cheongsam ine hunhu hwemamiriro ekunze uye yakakodzera zviitiko zvese zvepasi rose. Ndiyo sarudzo yakanakisa kune vashandi vehurumende vechikadzi nevakuru vemabhizinesi kuti vapinde mhemberero dzenyika, kushanya kwenyika nemhemberero huru kuratidza hunhu hwavo hwenyika.
Nguva yekutumira: Gumiguru-19-2023
