Resichinhu chakakosha. Matishu emesh, akarukwa nemaoko nemaoko nekuroka. Vanhu vekuEurope nevekuAmerica vanoshandisa zvipfeko zvevakadzi zvakanyanya, kunyanya mumadhirezi emanheru nemadhirezi emuchato. Muzana remakore rechi18, matare eEurope nevarume vane chiremera vaishandiswawo zvakanyanya mumacuffs, masiketi ekora, uye masokisi.
Kwakatangira resi
Maumbirwo elasi akaita seruva haana kuwanikwa nekuruka kana kuruka, asi nekumonera shinda. MuEurope muzana remakore rechi16 nerechi17, kushandiswa kweshinda dzelasi dzakagadzirwa neshinda kwakava nzira yekuwana mari kune mhizha dzega dzega uye nzira yekuti vakadzi vane hunhu hwepamusoro vashandise nguva yavo. Panguva iyoyo, kudiwa kwelasi munharaunda kwaive kukuru kwazvo, izvo zvaiita kuti vashandi velasi vashande vaneta zvikuru. Vaiwanzoshanda mupasi pevhu rine chakuvhuvhu, uye chiedza chaive chisina kusimba, saka vaingoona mavhiri ekutenderera chete.
Kubva John Heathcoat paakagadzira lace loom (yakapihwa patent muna 1809), vagadziri vema lace vekuBritain vakapinda munguva yeindasitiri, muchina uyu unogona kugadzira base re lace rakagadzirwa zvakanaka uye rakajairika. Vavezi vanongoda kuruka mifananidzo padandemutande, iyo inowanzo gadzirwa nesirika. Makore mashoma gare gare, John Leavers akagadzira muchina wakashandisa musimboti weFrench jacquard loom kugadzira mapatani e lace ne lace mesh, uye izvozvo zvakasimbisawo tsika ye lace muNottingham. Muchina weLeavers wakaoma zvikuru, une zvikamu 40000 uye mhando 50000 dzemitsetse, unofanirwa kushanda kubva kumativi akasiyana.
Nhasi uno, mamwe makambani emhando yepamusoro-soro achiri kushandisa michina yeLeavers. Karl Mayer akaunza michina yekuruka yakabatana yakaita seJacquardtronic neTextronic kugadzira lace yakabatana, asi isingadhuri, yakanaka uye yakareruka.
Shinda dzejira relace dzakadai serayon, nylon, polyester nespandex dzinochinjawo hunhu hwejira, asi mhando yeshinda inoshandiswa kugadzira jira inofanira kunge yakanaka kwazvo, ine huwandu hwakakura hwekumonera kupfuura shinda inoshandiswa pakuruka kana kuruka.
Zvishandiso uye kupatsanurwa kwelace
Lace inoshandisa nayiloni, polyester, donje ne rayon sezvinhu zvikuru zvekugadzira. Kana zvikawedzerwa ne spandex kana siriki inonamira, zvinogona kusimba.
Nylon (kana polyester) + spandex: jira rinopfava rinoita serisingapindiki.
Nylon + polyester + (spandex): inogona kugadzirwa kuita resi ine mavara maviri, yakagadzirwa nemavara akasiyana ebrocade uye polyester dyeing.
Polyester yakazara (kana nylon yakazara): inogona kukamurwa kuita filament imwe chete nefilament, inonyanya kushandiswa mudhirezi remuchato; filament inogona kutevedzera simba redonje.
Nylon (polyester) + donje: inogona kugadzirwa neruvara rwakasiyana.
Kazhinji, resi dziri pamusika dzinowanzo kamurwa kuita resi yemakemikari, resi yejira rekotoni, resi yeshinda yekotoni, resi yekushongedza uye resi inonyungudika mumvura. Resi yega yega ine hunhu hwayo, uye ine zvayakanakira nezvayakaipira zvakasiyana.
Simba nekushaya simba kweLace
1, resi yemakemikari fiber ndiyo mhando yakajairika yemachira eresi, zvinhu zvakavakirwa panylon, spandex. Magadzirirwo ayo anowanzova matete, uye akaomarara, kana kusangana zvakananga neganda kunganzwa kushoma. Asi zvakanakira resi yemakemikari fiber ndeyemutengo wakaderera, mapatani mazhinji, mavara mazhinji, uye yakasimba haisi nyore kupwanya. Dambudziko reresi yemakemikari fiber nderekuti haina kunaka, vanhu vezha, haisi kuayina tembiricha yepamusoro, haisi nyore kusimba, haigone kupfekwa sezvipfeko zvemunhu. Uye kazhinji, nekuda kwemutengo weresi yemakemikari fiber, inowanzo shandiswa muzvipfeko zvakachipa, saka ichapa vanhu rudzi rwekunzwa "kwakachipa".
2. Lace yekotoni inowanzo kuve rudzi rwelace yakagadzirwa neshinda yekotoni pajira rekotoni, yobva yacheka chikamu chejira rekotoni. Lace yekotoni inowanzoonekwawo, inogona kuonekwa pazvipfeko zvakawanda, kutwasuka kwakafanana nejira rekotoni. Zvakanakira lace yekotoni ndezvekuti inodhura zvakachipa, haisi nyore kutyora, inogona kudzvanywa pakupisa kwakanyanya, inonzwa zvakanaka. Asi dambudziko relace yekotoni nderekuti iri nyore kumonana, chimiro chayo hachina kunaka, chena chete. Kazhinji, lace yekotoni inzira yakanaka kana usingade kushandisa lace yekotoni yakachipa, pane pfungwa yakasimba yemutengo.
3, resi yeshinda yekotoni, sezita rayo, kushandiswa kweshinda yekotoni yakarukwa kuita resi. Resi yeshinda yekotoni nekuti kushandiswa kwese kweshinda yekotoni yakarukwa, saka ukobvu hwayo huchava hwakakora, kunzwa kwayo kuchava kwakaomarara. Zvakanakira nekuipira kweresi yeshinda yekotoni zvakafanana neresi yejira yekotoni. Resi yekotoni yakaumbwa zvishoma pane resi yekotoni, mutengo wayo unodhura zvishoma, uye haisi nyore kuikwenya, asi nekuti yakakora, haisi nyore kupeta nekuikotamisa. Kazhinji, resi yeshinda yekotoni inowanzo shandiswa muzvipfeko pane resi diki, uye hainyanyi kuonekwa.
4, resi yekushongedza iri mujira reshinda ine donje, polyester nedzimwe shinda kuti iruke chimiro cheresi, wobva wacheka mutsetse nekuti jira racho rakagadzirwa nemesh, saka kutaridzika kwaro kuchachinja zvichienderana nekuoma kwemesh, asi kazhinji, resi yekushongedza yakapfava yakagadzirwa nemesh yakapfava ichave iri nani. Kana tichienzanisa nemarudzi matatu ari pamusoro apa, mukana weresi yekushongedza inonzwa yakapfava uye yakatsetseka, haisi nyore kukwenya, inogona kupeta, uye kusimba kwayo kuri nani. Dambudziko reresi yekushongedza haisi kuayina tembiricha yakakwira, kutevedzera kwakaderera, kuri nyore kutyora. Kazhinji, mbatya dzine zvinodiwa zvepamusoro zvekupfava uye machira dzinoshandisa resi yakarukwa, senge siketi yemukati nehembe dzemukati.
5, resi inonyungudika mumvura inogadzirwa neshinda yepolyester kana kuti viscose lace lace pattern yakarukwa papepa re lining, mushure mekupedza kushandisa mvura inopisa zvakanyanya kunyungudutsa bepa re lining, zvichisiya muviri we lace chete, pasinei nezita rekuti resi inonyungudika mumvura. Nekuti resi inonyungudika mumvura ine tsono dzakawanda kupfuura dziri pamusoro apa, resi inonyungudika mumvura inodhurawo. Chakanakira resi inonyungudika mumvura ndechekuti inonzwa zvakanaka kwazvo, yakapfava uye yakapfava, inonamira zvishoma, inopenya, ine pfungwa nhatu, uye ine mapatani akawanda ekuenzanisira. Chakaipa cheresi inonyungudika mumvura ndechekuti mutengo wayo wakakwira, wakakora, hausi nyore kupeta, uye haugone kudzvanywa pakupisa kwakanyanya. Kazhinji, mbatya dzine basa rakanaka uye machira dzinoshandisa resi inonyungudika mumvura, uye resi inonyungudika mumvura yakagadzirwa zvakanaka inogona kusvika pamutengo wemakumi kana kunyange mazana eyuan / mita.
Nguva yekutumira: Kubvumbi-02-2024
