Parizvino, vazhinjimhando dzezvipfekovanoda zvitupa zvakasiyana-siyana zvemachira nemafekitori anogadzira machira. Pepa iri rinosuma muchidimbu zvitupa zvemachira zveGRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex izvo mabrandi makuru anotarisa pazviri munguva pfupi yapfuura.
1. Chitupa cheGRS
GRS ine chitupa chepasi rose chekudzokorodza machira nezvipfeko; GRS igwaro rekuzvidira, repasi rose, uye rakakwana rezvigadzirwa rinotarisa kusimbiswa kwekushandiswa kwezvigadzirwa nevatengesi, kudzora kuchengetedza, zvinhu zvakadzokororwa, mutoro wemagariro evanhu uye tsika dzezvakatipoteredza, uye mitemo yemakemikari, yakatangwa neTextileExchange uye yakasimbiswa nesangano rechitatu rekupa chitupa.
Chinangwa cheGRS certification ndechekuona kuti zvakataurwa pachigadzirwa chakakodzera ndezvechokwadi uye kuti chigadzirwa chacho chinogadzirwa mumamiriro ekushanda akanaka uye chisina kukanganisa zvakanyanya nharaunda uye makemikari. GRS certification yakagadzirirwa kusangana nezvinhu zvakawanikwa/zvakadzokororwa zviri muzvigadzirwa (zvese zvakapedzwa uye zvakapedzwa zvishoma) kuti zviongororwe nekambani, uye kusimbisa mabasa ane chekuita nekutarisira nharaunda, tsika dzenharaunda uye kushandiswa kwemakemikari.
Kunyorera chitupa cheGRS kunofanirwa kuzadzisa zvinodiwa zvishanu zvekutevedza, kuchengetedzwa kwezvakatipoteredza, mutoro wevanhu, kunyorwa patsva uye misimboti yakajairika.
Pamusoro pezvinodiwa nezvinhu zvakagadziriswa, chiyero ichi chinosanganisirawo mitemo yekugadzirisa nharaunda. Chinosanganisira mitemo yakaoma yekurapa mvura yakasviba uye kushandiswa kwemakemikari (zvichienderana neGlobal Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) pamwe neOeko-Tex100). Zvinhu zvine chekuita nemagariro evanhu zvinosanganisirwawo muGRS, iyo ine chinangwa chekuvimbisa hutano nekuchengetedzeka kwevashandi, kutsigira kodzero dzevashandi dzevashandi uye kutevedzera mitemo yakatarwa neInternational Labour Organisation (ILO).
Parizvino, makambani mazhinji ari kugadzira zvigadzirwa zvepolyester nedonje zvakadzokororwa, izvo zvinoda kuti vatengesi vemachira neshinda vape zvitupa zveGRS neruzivo rwekutengeserana kwavo kuti vatevedzere uye vape chitupa chemhando.
2. Chitupa cheGOTS
GOTS inobvumidza pasi rose organicmitemo yemachira; Muyero weGlobal Standard weOrganic Textile Certification (GOTS) unotsanangurwa zvakanyanya sezvinodiwa kuti machira ave nechimiro cheorganic, kusanganisira kukohwa zvinhu zvisina kugadzirwa, kugadzira zvinhu zvine chekuita nezvakatipoteredza uye magariro evanhu, uye kunyora mazita ezvigadzirwa kuti zvive nechokwadi cheruzivo rwevatengi nezvezvigadzirwa.
Mutemo uyu unopa basa rekugadzirisa, kugadzira, kurongedza, kunyora mazita, kupinza, kutumira kunze kwenyika uye kugoverwa kwemachira echisikigo. Zvigadzirwa zvekupedzisira zvinogona kusanganisira, asi hazvigumiri pa: zvigadzirwa zvefaibha, shinda, machira, mbatya nemachira epamba, mutemo uyu unongotarisa zvinodiwa chete.
Chinangwa chekusimbisa: machira anogadzirwa kubva mushinda dzechisikigo
Kuwanda kwezvitupa: Kutarisira kugadzirwa kwezvigadzirwa zveGOT, kuchengetedzwa kwezvakatipoteredza, mutoro wevanhu zvinhu zvitatu
Zvinodiwa pakugadzirwa: Ine 70% yefiber yechisikigo, kusanganisa hakubvumidzwe, ine fiber yekugadzira kana yakadzokororwa inosvika 10% (zvinhu zvemitambo zvinogona kuva nefiber yekugadzira kana yakadzokororwa inosvika 25%), hapana fiber yakagadziriswa majini.
Machira eorganic ndeimwe yemagwaro akakosha ekuti zvinhu zvakagadzirwa nemabrandi makuru zvinofanirwa kupihwa, pakati pawo tinofanira kusiyanisa musiyano uripo pakati peGOTS neOCS, izvo zvinonyanya kukosha kune zvinhu zvakagadzirwa nemaorganic.
3. Chitupa cheOCS
Mwero weOCS une zvicherwa zveorganic; Muyero weOrganic Content (OCS) unogona kushandiswa kune zvese zvisiri zvekudya zvine zvinhu zveorganic kubva pa5 kusvika ku100 muzana. Muyero uyu unogona kushandiswa kusimbisa zviri muzvinhu zveorganic muzvigadzirwa zvekupedzisira. Unogona kushandiswa kutevedzera zvinhu zveorganic kubva panobva chigadzirwa kusvika kuzvigadzirwa zvekupedzisira uye maitiro acho anosimbiswa nesangano rechitatu rinovimbwa naro. Mukuita kwekuongorora kwakazvimirira zvizere zviri muzvigadzirwa zveorganic, zviyero zvichave zvakajeka uye zvinoenderana. Muyero uyu unogona kushandiswa sechishandiso chebhizinesi pakati pemakambani kubatsira makambani kuona kuti zvigadzirwa zvavanotenga kana kubhadhara zvinosangana nezvinodiwa zvavo.
Chinangwa chekusimbiswa: zvigadzirwa zvisiri zvekudya zvinogadzirwa nezvinhu zvakagadziriswa zvechisikigo.
Chiyero chekusimbisa: Kutarisira kugadzirwa kwechigadzirwa cheOCS.
Zvinodiwa pakugadzirwa: Zvine zvinhu zvinodarika 5% zvinosangana nezvinodiwa nemakemikari.
Zvinodiwa neOCS pazvinhu zve organic zvakaderera zvikuru pane GOTS, saka mutengi wepakati wechiratidzo anoda kuti mutengesi ape chitupa cheGOTS pane chitupa cheOCS.
4. Chitupa cheBCI
Sangano reBCI Certified Swiss Good Cotton Development Association; The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), rakanyoreswa muna 2009 uye rine muzinda waro muGeneva, Switzerland, isangano risiri renyika rinoshanda senhengo rine mahofisi mana anomiririra muChina, India, Pakistan neLondon. Parizvino, rine masangano anopfuura chiuru pasi rose, anosanganisira mayuniti ekudyara donje, mabhizinesi emachira edonje uye mabrandi ekutengesa.
BCI inoshanda nevanhu vakasiyana-siyana vanobatanidzwa mukusimudzira mapurojekiti ekurima eBetterCotton pasi rose uye kubatsira kufamba kweBetterCotton muchikamu chekutengesa, zvichibva pamitemo yekugadzira donje yakagadzirwa neBCI. Chinangwa chikuru cheBCI ndechekushandura kugadzirwa kwedonje pasi rose kuburikidza nekuvandudza chirongwa cheGood Cotton, zvichiita kuti donje rakanaka rive chinhu chikuru. Panosvika gore ra2020, kugadzirwa kwedonje rakanaka kuchasvika 30% yehuwandu hwedonje rinogadzirwa pasi rose.
BCI nheyo nhanhatu dzekugadzira:
1. Deredza migumisiro yakaipa pamatanho ekudzivirira zvirimwa.
2. Kushandiswa kwemvura nemazvo uye kuchengetedzwa kwezviwanikwa zvemvura.
3. Tarisa hutano hwevhu.
4. Chengetedza nzvimbo dzekugara dzechisikigo.
5. Kutarisira nekudzivirira mhando yefaibha.
6. Kukurudzira basa rakanaka.
Parizvino, mabrandi mazhinji anoda kuti donje revatengesi vavo ribve kuBCI, uye vane puratifomu yavo yekutevera yeBCI kuti vave nechokwadi chekuti vatengesi vanogona kutenga BCI chaiyo, uko mutengo weBCI wakafanana newedonje rakajairika, asi mutengesi achasanganisira mari inoenderana pakunyorera uye kushandisa puratifomu yeBCI uye kuve nhengo. Kazhinji, kushandiswa kweBCCU kunoteverwa kuburikidza nepuratifomu yeBCI (1BCCU=1kg donje lint).
5. Chitupa cheRDS
RDS yakasimbiswa neHumane uye Responsible pasi mwero; RDS ResponsibleDownStandard (Responsibledown Standard). Humane and Responsible Down Standard chirongwa chezvitupa chakagadzirwa neVF Corporation's TheNorthFace pamwe chete neTextile Exchange neDutch ControlUnion Certifications, sangano rechitatu rezvitupa. Chirongwa ichi chakatangwa zviri pamutemo muna Ndira 2014 uye chitupa chekutanga chakapihwa muna Chikumi wegore rimwe chete. Munguva yekugadzirwa kwechirongwa chezvitupa, mupi wezvitupa akashanda nevatengesi vanotungamira AlliedFeather& Down neDownlite kuti vaongorore uye vaone kuti zvinoenderana nezvinodiwa padanho rega rega rekutengesa pasi.
Manhenga emadhadha, madhadha nedzimwe shiri dziri muindasitiri yechikafu ndeimwe yemhando yepamusoro uye inoshanda zvakanaka kwazvo. Humane Down Standard yakagadzirirwa kuongorora nekutsvaga kwakabva chero chigadzirwa chakagadzirwa kubva pasi, zvichiita kuti pave nekuchengetedzwa kubva kugosling kusvika kuzvigadzirwa zvekupedzisira. Chitupa cheRDS chinosanganisira kupihwa chitupa chevatengesi vezvinhu zvakagadziriswa kubva pasi nefeather, uye chinosanganisirawo chitupa chemafekitori ekugadzira majaketi.
6. Chitupa cheOeko-TEX
OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 yakagadzirwa neInternational Environmental Textile Association (OEKO-TEX®Association) muna 1992 kuti iedze hunhu hwezvigadzirwa zvemachira nezvipfeko maererano nemhedzisiro yazvo pahutano hwevanhu. OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 inotsanangura mhando dzezvinhu zvine njodzi zvinogona kuwanikwa muzvigadzirwa zvemachira nezvipfeko. Zvinhu zvekuyedza zvinosanganisira pH, formaldehyde, heavy metals, zvipembenene/herbicides, chlorinated phenol, phthalates, organotin, azo dyes, carcinogenic/allergenic dyes, OPP, PFOS, PFOA, chlorobenzene uye chlorotoluene, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, color fastness, volatile matter, odor, nezvimwewo, uye zvigadzirwa zvakakamurwa muzvikamu zvina zvichienderana nekushandiswa kwekupedzisira: Kirasi I yevacheche, Kirasi II yekubatana zvakananga neganda, Kirasi III yekubatana zvakananga neganda uye Kirasi IV yekushandiswa kwekushongedza.
Parizvino, Oeko-tex, seimwe yemagwaro ekuchengetedza zvakatipoteredza emafekitori emachira, inowanzoda kushandira pamwe nevaridzi vemabrandi, inova ndiyo inodiwa zvakanyanya kumafekitori.
Kupedzisa
Siyinghongfekitori yezvipfekoinotungamira muindasitiri yemafashoni uye yakawana zvitupa zvakawanda uye zviyero zvekubatsira bhizinesi rako kubudirira.
Kana uchida kuti mbatya dzako dzive dzakanaka uye dzisingakuvadzi nharaunda, usatsvaga imwe nzvimbo kunze kweSiyinghongfekitari yembatya. Isu tinokoshesa kuchengetedza zvinhu uye mutoro wevanhu sezvinhu zvatinonyanya kukoshesa mukugadzira kuitira kuti mugone kugadzira mbatya dzefashoni nechivimbo pasina kukuvadza nharaunda.Taura nesunhasi kuti uwane rumwe ruzivo rwekuti tingakubatsira sei kuzadzisa zvinangwa zvako.
Nguva yekutumira: Kurume-28-2024
