Chipfeko chinowanzoshandiswamucheka wekurukandicho chinoruka muchimiro cheshuttle, umo shinda inoumbwa kuburikidza nekudzika kwelongitudo uye latitude. Sangano rayo rinowanzove nemapoka matatu e flat, twill uye satin, uye sangano ravo rinoshanduka (munguva dzazvino, nekuda kwekushandiswa kwechivharo-yemahara, kurukwa kwemachira akadaro haashandisi fomu yekuvhara, asi jira richiri. shuttle weaving). Kubva kune chikamu chemucheka wekotoni, jira resilika, mvere dzemakwai, jira rerineni, kemikari fiber jira uye yavo yakasanganiswa uye yakarukwa machira, kushandiswa kwemachira akarukwa muzvipfeko zvingave zvakasiyana kana mukutungamira kwehuwandu hwekugadzira. Nekuda kwekusiyana kwemaitiro, tekinoroji, maitiro uye zvimwe zvinhu, kune misiyano mikuru mukugadzirisa maitiro uye nzira dzekugadzirisa. Izvi zvinotevera ruzivo rwekutanga kugadzirwa kwehembe dzakarukwa.
(1) Maitiro ekugadzira zvipfeko zvakarukwa
Zvigadzirwa zvepamusoro mufekitari yekuongorora tekinoroji, kucheka uye kusona kiyi bhatani, ironing nguo yekuongorora yekurongedza kurongedza kana kutumira.
Mushure mokunge jira rapinda mufekitari, nhamba yehuwandu uye chitarisiko uye unhu hwemukati hunofanira kuongororwa. Chete kana vasangana nezvinodiwa zvekugadzira vanogona kuiswa mukushanda. Pamberi pekugadzirwa kwemazhinji, kugadzirira kwehunyanzvi kunofanirwa kutanga kuitwe, kusanganisira kugadzirwa kwepepa rekuita, sampuli ndiro uye sampuli yekugadzira zvipfeko. Chipfeko chemuenzaniso chinogona kupinda mune inotevera yekugadzira maitiro chete mushure mekusimbiswa nemutengi. Machira anochekwa osonewa kuita semi-apera zvigadzirwa. Mushure mekunge mamwe machira ekuvharisa agadzirwa kuita semi-apedzwa zvigadzirwa, zvinoenderana neakakosha maitiro ezvinodiwa, anofanirwa kurongedzwa uye kugadziriswa, senge kugeza nguo, kugeza jecha rembatya, kumonyorora maitiro ekugadzirisa, nezvimwewo, uye pakupedzisira, kuburikidza nerubatsiro maitiro uye kupedzisa maitiro, uye wozoputirwa uye kuchengetwa mushure mekupfuura ongororo.
(2) Chinangwa uye zvinodiwa zvekuongorora machira
Unhu hwemicheka yakanaka chikamu chakakosha chekudzora kunaka kwezvigadzirwa zvakapedzwa. Kuongororwa uye kutsunga kwejira rinouya rinogona kuvandudza chiyero chemhando yezvipfeko.
Kuongororwa kwemucheka kunosanganisira zvese kutaridzika kwemhando uye yemukati mhando. Chitarisiko chikuru chejira ndechekuti pane kukuvadzwa, mavara, zvikanganiso zvekuruka, musiyano wemavara uye zvichingodaro. Iyo jecha rekugezesa jira rinofanirwawo kutarisisa kuti kune jecha mugwagwa, akafa peta chisimbiso, crack uye zvimwe zvirema zvekugeza jecha. Kukanganisa kunobata chitarisiko kunofanirwa kucherechedzwa nemavara mukuongorora uye kudziviswa kana uchicheka.
Unhu hwemukati hwemucheka unonyanya kusanganisira shrinkage, kukurumidza kwemavara uye uremu (m, ounce) zvitatu zvemukati. Munguva yekuongorora sampling, anomiririra masampuli emhando dzakasiyana uye mavara akasiyana anofanirwa kutemwa kuti aongororwe kuve nechokwadi chechokwadi che data.
Panguva imwecheteyo, zvinhu zvekubatsira zvinopinda mufekitari zvinofanirawo kuongororwa, zvakadai se shrinkage rate yebhanhire elastic, kusungirirwa kwekunamatira kwekunamatira, chiyero che zipper smoothness, nezvimwe zvinhu zvinobatsira izvo zvisingakwanisi kuzadzisa zvinodiwa. haizopinzwa mukushanda.
(3) Iyo huru yekufambisa kwehunyanzvi kugadzirira
Kusati kwagadzirwa kwakawanda, vashandi vehunyanzvi vanofanirwa kutanga vaita basa rakanaka rekugadzirira kwehunyanzvi kusati kwagadzirwa. Kugadzirira kwehunyanzvi kunosanganisira zvitatu zvirimo: pepa rekuita, kugadzira sampuli yebepa uye sampuli kugadzira zvipfeko. Kugadzirira kwehunyanzvi inzira yakakosha yekuve nechokwadi chekugadzirwa kwemazhinji uye chigadzirwa chekupedzisira kusangana nezvinodiwa nevatengi.
Process sheet igwaro rinotungamira mukugadziriswa kwembatya. Inoisa pamberi zvakadzama zvinodiwa pane zvakatemwa, kusona, ironing, kupedzisa uye kurongedza, nezvimwewo, uye zvakare inojekesa iwo mameseji senge kugovaniswa kwezvipfeko zvembatya uye kuwanda kwemateki ekusona, ona Tafura 1-1. Maitiro ese ari mukugadzirisa zvipfeko anofanirwa kuitwa zvakanyatsoenderana nezvinodiwa zvepepa rekuita.
Kugadzirwa kwesample kunoda saizi chaiyo uye yakazara yakatarwa. Mitsetse ye contour yezvikamu zvakakosha inopindirana nemazvo. Nhamba yezvipfeko, chikamu, chirevo, kutungamira kwekiyi dzesiriki uye zvinodiwa zvemhando zvinofanirwa kumakwa pamuenzaniso, uye sampuli inoumbwa chisimbiso inofanira kuiswa chidhindo panzvimbo yakakodzera yekubatanidza.
Mushure mekupedzwa kwepepa rekuita uye sampuli kuumbwa, kugadzirwa kwediki batch sampuli zvipfeko zvinogona kuitwa, uye mutsauko unogona kugadziriswa nenguva zvichienderana nezvinodiwa nevatengi uye maitiro, uye matambudziko ekugadzirisa anogona kugadziriswa, saka kuti basa rekuyerera kwevazhinji rinogona kuitwa zvakanaka. Sample yave imwe yeakakosha mabhesi ekuongorora mushure memutengi.
(4) Kucheka nzira zvinodiwa
Tisati tacheka, tinofanira kudhirowa dhizaini yekuburitsa zvinoenderana nemuenzaniso. "Yakazara, inonzwisisika uye inochengetedza" ndiyo musimboti wekutanga wekubvisa. Main process zvinodiwa mukucheka maitiro ndeaya anotevera:
(1) Bvisa huwandu panguva yekukwevera, uye teerera kudzivirira kukanganisa.
(2) Kune akasiyana mabheji edhayi kana jecha machira akagezwa anofanirwa kuchekwa mumabhechi kudzivirira musiyano weruvara pane zvipfeko zvakafanana. Nokuda kwekuvapo kwekusiyana kwemavara mumucheka kune mutsauko wemavara kubuda.
(3) Paunenge uchirasa zvinhu, tarisa kuti tambo dzesirika dzejira uye gwara reshinda dzehembe dzinosangana nezvinodiwa. Pamusoro pemucheka wevelvet (zvakadai sevelvet, velvet, corduroy, nezvimwewo), zvigadzirwa hazvifaniri kubudiswa kumashure, kana zvisina kudaro kudzika kwemavara ezvokupfeka kuchakanganiswa.
(4) Pamucheka wakaiswa, tinofanira kutarisisa kurongeka nekumisikidzwa kwembariro mune imwe neimwe layer, kuitira kuti tive nechokwadi chekubatana uye symmetry yembariro pane zvipfeko.
(5) Kucheka kunoda kucheka kwakarurama, uye mitsetse yakatwasuka uye yakatsetseka. Iyo pavement haifanirwe kunge yakanyanya kukora, uye kumusoro uye kuzasi machira emucheka haapfuuri.
(6) Cheka banga maererano nemuenzaniso chiratidzo.
(7) Kuchenjerera kunofanira kutorwa kusakanganisa chitarisiko chechipfeko pakushandisa chiratidzo cheburi rekoni. Mushure mekucheka, huwandu uye kuongororwa kwepiritsi kunofanirwa kuverengerwa, uye kusungirirwa zvinoenderana nezvipfeko zvakatemwa, nenhamba yekusimbisa tikiti, zvikamu uye zvakanamirwa.
(5) Kusona uye kusona ndiyo nzira yepakati yekugadzirwa kwenguo. Kusona nguo kunogona kupatsanurwa kuita muchina wekusona uye kusona nemaoko zvichienderana nechimiro uye hunyanzvi hwekuita. Mukusona nekugadzirisa nzira yekushandiswa kwekuyerera kwekushanda.
Iko kushandiswa kwekunamatira lining mukugadziriswa kwembatya kwakajairika, basa rayo ndere kurerutsa nzira yekusona, kugadzira yunifomu yemhando yezvipfeko, kudzivirira deformation uye kuunyana, uye kuita rimwe basa mukuenzanisira kwezvipfeko. Mhando dzayo dzemachira asiri akarukwa, machira akarukwa, machira akarukwa sejira rekutanga, kushandiswa kwekunamatira lining kunofanirwa kusarudzwa zvinoenderana nejira rembatya uye zvikamu, uye kunyatsobata nguva, tembiricha uye kudzvanywa, kuitira kuti uwane mhedzisiro iri nani. .
Mukugadzirwa kwembatya dzakarukwa, misono inobatanidzwa maererano nemutemo wakati kuti iite shinda yakasimba uye yakanaka.
Iyo trace inogona kupfupikiswa mumhando ina dzinotevera:
1. Chain string trace Mucherechedzo wetambo wetambo unogadzirwa neimwe kana maviri sutures. A single suture. Kubatsira kwaro ndekwekuti huwandu hwemitsara hunoshandiswa muhurefu hweyuniti hudiki, asi chakashata ndechekuti kumucheto kwekuvhara kusunungurwa kuchaitika kana mutsara weketani waputsika. Iyo tambo yekaviri suture inonzi double chain seam, iyo inogadzirwa netsono uye hook line tambo, elasticity yayo uye simba zviri nani pane yekukiya shinda, uye hazvisi nyore kuparadzira panguva imwe chete. Single line chain line trace inowanzoshandiswa mupendero yejacket, trouser seam, suit jacket barge head, etc. Double-line chain line trace inowanzoshandiswa mu suture ye seam edge, seam yekumashure uye side seam yebhurugwa, bhandi re elastic uye zvimwe zvikamu zvine zvakawanda zvakatambanudzwa uye simba rakasimba.
2. Mutsara wekuvhara mutsara, unozivikanwawo seshuttle suture trace, unobatanidzwa nemashizha maviri mumusono. Migumo miviri ye suture ine chimiro chakafanana, uye kutambanudza kwayo uye elasticity yakashata, asi suture yepamusoro uye yakaderera iri pedyo. Iyo linear lock suture trace ndiyo yakajairika suture suture trace, iyo inowanzoshandiswa kune suture yezvimedu zviviri zve suture material. Zvakadai sekusona mupendero, kuchengetedza kusona, bhegi uye zvichingodaro.
3. Iyo yekuputira suture trace ishinda inoiswa kumucheto kweseam neanotevedzana emasutu.Maererano nenhamba yemateki esuture (imwe suture musono, kaviri suture musono… Musono unomonera musono). Chimiro chayo ndechekuita mupendero wezvinhu zvekusona zvakaputirwa, tamba basa rekudzivirira kumucheto kwejira. Kana musono wakatambanudzwa, panogona kuve nehumwe dhigirii rekutamisana pakati pemutsara wepamusoro uye mutsara wepasi, saka iyo elasticity yemusono iri nani, saka inoshandiswa zvakanyanya pamucheto wejira. Matatu-waya uye newaya seams ndiwo anonyanya kushandiswa hembe dzakarukwa. Mashanu-waya uye matanhatu-mutsara seams, anozivikanwawo se "composite tracks", anoumbwa nekaviri-mutsara musono ane mitsara mitatu kana ina-waya seam. Chimiro chayo chikuru isimba guru, iro rinogona kusanganiswa uye kuputirwa panguva imwe chete, kuitira kuti uvandudze kuwanda kwekutsvaira kwekutsvaga uye kubudirira kwekugadzira kwekusona.
4. Iyo suture trace inogadzirwa neanopfuura tsono mbiri uye curved hook thread kuburikidza nemumwe, uye dzimwe nguva imwe kana mbiri yekushongedza tambo inowedzerwa kumberi. Hunhu hweiyo suture trace yakasimba, yakanaka tensile, yakatsetseka seam, mune dzimwe nguva (sekusona musono) inogonawo kuita basa rekudzivirira kumucheto kwejira.
Mamiriro ekutanga ekusona anoratidzwa muMufananidzo 1-13. Pamusoro pekusona kwekutanga, kune zvakare nzira dzekugadzirisa dzakadai sekupeta uye embroidery yemachira zvinoenderana nezvinodiwa zvemaitiro uye tekinoroji. Sarudzo yetsono, shinda uye tsano track density mukusonesa nguo yakarukwa inofanirwa kutarisisa zvinodiwa zvejira rejira magadzirirwo uye maitiro.
Tsono dzinogona kurongeka ne "rudzi uye nhamba". Zvinoenderana nechimiro, stitches inogona kukamurwa kuita S, J, B, U, Y mhando, inoenderana nemachira akasiyana, zvichiteerana uchishandisa akakodzera tsono mhando.
Ukobvu hwema stitches anoshandiswa muChina hunosiyaniswa nenhamba, uye chiyero chekukora chinova chakakora uye chakakora nekuwedzera kwenhamba. Iwo masitichi anoshandiswa mukugadzira hembe anowanzo kubva pa7 kusvika 18, uye machira akasiyana embatya anoshandisa matinji akasiyana ehukobvu hwakasiyana.
Muchidimbu, kusarudzwa kwemashizha kunofanira kunge kwakafanana nekugadzirwa uye ruvara semucheka wenguvo (kunyanya pakushongedza kwekugadzira). Sutures kazhinji inosanganisira sirika shinda, donje shinda, donje / polyester shinda, polyester shinda, etc. Pakusarudza stitches, isu tinofanirawo kutarisisa kunaka kwemasono, senge color fastness, shrinkage, fastness simba uye zvichingodaro. Standard suture ichashandiswa kune ese machira.
Iyo tsono track density ndiyo density yetsoka yetsono, iyo inotongwa nenhamba yesutures mukati me3cm pamusoro pemucheka, uye inogonawo kuratidzwa nenhamba yepinholes mumucheka we3cm. Yakajairwa tsono trace density mune yakarukwa hembe kugadzirisa.
Kusonerwa kwembatya pazere kunoda kutsvinda uye kwakanaka, hakugone kuoneka asymmetry, yakakombama, inodonha, musono wakashata uye zvimwe zviitiko. Mukusona, tinofanira kuterera kune muenzaniso we splicing, uye symmetry. Iyo suture ichave yakafanana uye yakatwasuka, yakatsetseka uye yakatsetseka; iyo tangent yechipfeko chepamusoro chakati sandara chisina kuunyana uye kupeta kudiki; iyo suture iri muchimiro chakanaka, isina mutsara wakatyoka, tambo inoyangarara, uye zvikamu zvakakosha senge collar tip hazvifanirwe kuve waya.
(6) buri rekiyi chipikiri
Gomba rekukiya uye mbambo yezvipikiri muzvipfeko zvinowanzogadzirwa nemuchina. Buckle reziso rakakamurwa kuita gomba rakati sandara uye buri reziso zvichienderana nechimiro charo, rinowanzozivikanwa segomba rekurara uye gomba reziso renjiva.
Maziso akatwasuka anoshandiswa zvakanyanya muhembe, masiketi, bhurugwa uye zvimwe zvitete zvigadzirwa zvembatya zvigadzirwa.
Maziso ePhoenix anonyanya kushandiswa mumajaketi, masutu uye mamwe machira akakora pachikamu chejasi.
Lock hole inofanirwa kutarisisa kune zvinotevera pfungwa:
(1) Kana nzvimbo ye cingulate yakarurama.
(2) Kunyangwe saizi yebhatani ziso inofananidzwa nehukuru uye ukobvu hwebhatani.
(3) Kana bhatani rekuvhura rakachekwa zvakanaka.
(4) kuve neyakatambanudzwa (elastic) kana yakaonda kwazvo yekupfeka zvinhu, kufunga nezve kushandiswa kwegomba rekuvhara mukati memukati wekusimbisa jira. Iko kusona kwebhatani kunofanirwa kuenderana nenzvimbo yebuttingpoint, zvikasadaro bhatani harizokonzeresa kukanganisa uye skew yebhatani chinzvimbo. Kuchenjerera kunofanirawo kubhadharwa kuti chiyero uye simba remutsara wakakwana zvakakwana kudzivirira bhatani kuti rirege kuwira, uye kana nhamba yebhanhire pamucheka wakakora wakakwana.
(Vanomwe) vanhu vanopisa vanowanzoshandisa "mapoinzi matatu kusona zvinomwe zvinopisa" kune kugadzirisa kwakasimba kunopisa inzira inokosha mukugadzirisa zvipfeko.
Kune matatu makuru mabasa e ironing:
(1) Bvisa makwinya embatya kuburikidza nekupfapfaidza nekuayina, uye tora makorokoza acho.
(2) Mushure mekupisa kuumba kurapwa, ita kuti zvipfeko zvioneke zvakadzikama, zvakapfava, mitsara yakatwasuka.
(3) Shandisa "kudzoka" uye "kudhonza" hunyanzvi hweku ironing kuti uchinje kuderera kwefiber uye density uye kutungamira kwesangano rejira remachira, gadzira iyo-matatu-dimensional chimiro chembatya, kuti ienderane nezvinodiwa nemuviri wemunhu. chimiro uye chimiro chechiitiko, kuitira kuti zvipfeko zviwane chinangwa chekutaridzika kwakanaka uye kupfeka kwakanaka.
Zvinhu zvina zvakakosha zvinokanganisa ironing yejira ndezvi: tembiricha, humidity, pressure uye nguva. Iyo ironing tembiricha ndiyo inonyanya kukanganisa iyo ironing effect. Kubata tembiricha ye ironing yemachira akasiyana-siyana ndiro dambudziko guru rekupfeka. Iyo ironing tembiricha yakadzikira zvakanyanya kuti isvike pakuita ironing; tembiricha ye ironing ichakonzera kukanganisa.
Iyo ironing tembiricha yemarudzi ese efiber, kunyangwe nenguva yekubata, kukurumidza kufamba, ironing pressure, ingave yekurara, ukobvu hwemubhedha uye hunyoro zvine zvinhu zvakasiyana.
Izvi zvinotevera zviitiko zvinofanirwa kudziviswa mu ironing:
(1) Aurora uye kupisa pamusoro penguo.
(2) Kumusoro kwembatya kwakasiya madiki madiki nemakwinya nezvimwe zvinopisa zvinopisa.
(3) Pane kubuda uye zvikamu zvinopisa.
(8) Kuongororwa kwenguo
Kuongororwa kwembatya kunofanirwa kumhanyisa mukati mese kugadzirwa kwekucheka, kusona, keyhole buckle, kupedzisa uye ironing. Pamberi pekurongedza uye kuchengetedza, zvigadzirwa zvakapedzwa zvinofanirwawo kuongororwa zvizere kuti ive nechokwadi chemhando yezvigadzirwa.
Izvo zvikuru zviri mukati mekupedzwa kwechigadzirwa chekuongorora zvinosanganisira:
(1) Kana manyorerwo acho akafanana neaya yekusimbisa.
(2) Kunyangwe saizi uye zvakatemwa zvinosangana nezvinodiwa zvepepa rekuita uye sampuli yekupfeka.
(3) Kuti suture yacho ndeyechokwadi here, uye kana kusona kwacho kuri hembe dzakatsvinda uye dzakapfava.
(4) zvipfeko zvejira remachira tarisa kana maviri acho ari echokwadi.
(5) kana jira resilika wisp rakarurama, kana pasina chakaremara pajira, mafuta aripo.
(6) Kana paine dambudziko rekusiyana kwemavara muchipfeko chimwe chete.
(7) Kana ironing yakanaka.
(8) Kana iyo yekubatanidza lining yakasimba, uye kana paine glue infiltration phenomenon.
(9) Kana musoro wewaya wakagadziriswa.
(10) Kunyangwe zvipfeko zvembatya zvakwana.
(11) Kana saizi yemucherechedzo, mucherechedzo wewachi uye mucherechedzo pazvipfeko zvinopindirana nezviri mukati mezvigadzirwa, uye kana chinzvimbo chiri chokwadi.
(12) Kana chimiro chembatya chacho chakanaka.
(13) Kana iyo yekurongedza inoenderana nezvinodiwa.
(9) Kurongedza uye kuchengetedza
Kurongedza kwembatya kunogona kupatsanurwa kuita marudzi maviri ekurembera uye kurongedza, ayo anowanzo kupatsanurwa mukati mekurongedza uye ekunze kurongedza.
Inner packaging inoreva chidimbu chimwe kana zvimwe zvembatya mubhegi rerabha. Nhamba yekubhadhara uye saizi yezvipfeko inofanira kuenderana neyakaiswa pabhegi rerubha, uye kurongedza kunofanirwa kuve kwakapfava uye kwakanaka. Zvimwe zvitayera zvembatya zvinofanirwa kurongedzerwa zvine mabatirwo akasarudzika, sembatya dzakamonyoroka kuti dzipinzwe muchimiro chetsvina, kuchengetedza manyorerwo adzo.
Iyo yekunze package inowanzo kurongedzerwa mumakatoni, zvinoenderana nezvinodiwa nevatengi kana process sheet mirairo. Packaging fomu inowanzove yakasanganiswa ruvara yakasanganiswa kodhi, imwechete yakazvimiririra kodhi, imwe chete ruvara yakasanganiswa kodhi, yakasanganiswa ruvara yakazvimirira kodhi mana marudzi. Pakurongedza, isu tinofanirwa kutarisisa kuwanda kwakazara uye iyo chaiyo ruvara uye saizi collocation. Geza mucherechedzo webhokisi pabhokisi rekunze, zvichiratidza mutengi, chiteshi chengarava, nhamba yebhokisi, huwandu, mavambo, nezvimwe, uye zvirimo zvinopindirana nezvinhu chaizvo.
Nguva yekutumira: May-25-2024
